Cuyahoga Valley NP & Steve's Wrap-Up Notes

Cuyahoga Valley is the only National Park in Ohio, and this was a state we hadn’t officially visited yet, so we plotted our return to Nashville from NY via Ohio. There was an interesting hike here and a waterfall (singular, in both instances).

Brandywine Falls was nice enough. Compared to NY waterfalls, there was at least a decent amount of water to make it nicely full.

The hike was called The Ledges, and that was quite apropos -

Even though we were deep into summer, the trail was very shaded, so it wasn’t onerous to hike the 2 mile loop at all.

It was gorgeously green…

… and peaceful…

… and with neat erosions -

Steve is going to offer a summary and his notes on our epic road trip in the second half of this post. Suffice it to say that we visited 7 new states for us - bringing our total of US states explored to 46 - as well as 6 new Canadian provinces. We’ve also visited 48 US National Parks, out of a total of 63 (currently). Other stats for us… since retirement 8 years ago now (!), we have set foot on all 7 continents and, so far, have explored 54 countries (including “protectorates” like French Polynesia, Aruba, and the Cayman Islands).

Steve Enters the Conversation:

As always, we saw some interesting signs on this trip. This one apparently means that they don’t want anyone doing this hike!

This one, at our last hike in Newfoundland, seemed a bit contradictory:

Speaking of the last hike in Newfoundland, I thought this picture really showed the scope of the view from up top:

And this sign didn’t really tempt us before our hike:

We were warmly welcomed to Maine:

We quickly got used to the question of “do you need a machine?,” rather than “are you paying by card?” We had not heard that usage before, but it was the common approach beginning in Maine and continuing throughout the Atlantic Provinces.

After Maine, our first stop was the Province of New Brunswick, one of the original four provinces of Canada:

New Brunswick provides the northwestern shore of the Bay of Fundy, and is the location of the Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, where Lisa got her neat pictures of the range of the tides. It also is where we experienced a high-end variation on Quebec’s best known contribution to Canadian cuisine, Lobster Poutine:

After New Brunswick, we journeyed to Prince Edward Island:

PEI and its capital of Charlottetown are known as the birthplace of Canada, as it was the location of the first 1864 meeting of colonial delegates on the subject of confederation. Ironically, it was not one of the first four confederated provinces (in 1867), and didn’t join Canada until 1873—after both Manitoba and British Columbia.

Another thing for which the island is known is, perhaps, the draw for most of its tourists: it was the setting for the Anne of Green Gables books. (Unfortunately, neither of us has read them, so we missed out on what most people see!)

Next stop was Nova Scotia (“New Scotland”), another of the original four provinces:

Our favorite part of Nova Scotia was Cape Breton Island.  The hiking paths and driving scenery were fantastic. Scottish influence remains strong; indeed, “the Gaelic College” off the Cabot Trail offers year round courses in the culture, music, and language of the immigrants from the Scottish Highlands.  For those of you who are golfers, Cape Breton apparently has 2 of the top 6 golf courses in Canada—including the best links course.

The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site is also on Cape Breton. The inventor and his family established a home in Braddeck, Nova Scotia, after inventing the telephone. The museum near their estate has interesting exhibits focused on his life and work, including airplanes, high performance hydrofoils, and transmission of conversations via light beams (the “photophone”). The exhibit that most caught our intention though consisted of a typewriter, accompanied by a very detailed explanation of what it was, and how it worked.  Boy, that sure made us feel old!!

After Cape Breton, we started our week on the Island of Newfoundland—which has 95% of the population, but only 37% of the land, of the Province of Newfoundland and Labrador:

The Norse settled in Newfoundland for a short sojourn circa 1000 A.D., and it was heavily visited by European fishermen beginning shortly after 1500. Nonetheless, it didn’t become part of Canada until 1949 (and even then only after a great deal of political machinations, as Canada and England worked to prevent it from becoming too close to the United States).

In the US we tend to pronounce the name of the province with the stress on the first syllable, but locals stress the second syllable (newFOUNDland). Their accents varied as we made our way across the island, from general Canadian (oot and aboot) in the west, to nearly sounding Irish in St. John’s (the capital city on the east coast).  The differing accents are attributable to the settlement patterns of the island—and to the fact that villages were easily accessible only by sea.  Apparently, even today, natives can determine by accents where their fellow residents grew up—and, therefore, even which religion they were raised in (Protestant and Catholic villages). 

Finally, one piece of trivia about Newfoundland. Just off its southern coast is the 8 island archipelago of Saint Pierre and Miquelon, which is still part of France. Despite having a population of less than 6,000, it has a delegate in France’s National Assembly. Unfortunately, we ran out of time and were unable to go to this part of France….

Speaking of France, we had an enjoyable stay in Quebec City, the capital of another of the four founding provinces of Canada:

As Lisa indicated, in Quebec City, we stayed at a far less expensive place than the famous Chateau Frontenac Hotel, but we did walk the couple of blocks one night to visit their renowned bar. Once there, we found that even the mailboxes were fancy:

As a bonus for spending almost as much on drinks as for the cost per night of our nearby 4th floor walkup, we noticed a party two tables over included a familiar looking older gentleman—the singer Rod Stewart! It didn’t seem appropriate to take his picture in a bar, but I did stumble across this nice sculpture the next day:

After our stay in Quebec, we headed back to the USA, passing through Ontario on our way to the Finger Lakes region of New York. We really enjoyed the Konstantin Frank winery there. After the Finger Lakes, we spent two nights at Niagara Falls, with most of our waking time in the Province of Ontario, the fourth original Canadian Province:

Crossing the Rainbow bridge to look at the falls was our first time walking into Canada, and gave us our fourth method of crossing that border in less than a year (car, plane, bicycle, and on foot).

As Lisa noted, the views of the falls from Canada were outstanding. Equally outstanding are the wineries around Niagara-on-the-Lake. Especially if you are a fan of ice wines, this is a can’t miss wine destination!

This was our first real trip to the Northeast US, and our first time in Eastern Canada.  Over the course of 2 months, we drove almost 8000 miles, did a bunch of hikes, enjoyed three separate winemaking regions (of course), and took in some amazing food and scenery.  We’d definitely recommend taking a look at these destinations!

New York state

We had a long day of driving when we left Quebec City. We stopped about 4 hours into it to go up in the Thousand Islands Tower. This was a very touristic thing to do, but it was pretty cool to get a bird’s eye view of this unique area on the US - Canadian border.

These 1,864 islands scattered in the St. Lawrence River for about 50 miles was a fashionable retreat in the late 19th century.

Our goal for the day was to get to Ithaca, NY where we hung out for 3 days to relax, hike and wine taste. ;)

Ithaca sits at the southern end of Cayuga Lake, which is one of the Finger Lakes. If you look at a map of western NY, you’ll see why they are called ‘finger lakes’.

Both sides of most lakes are lined with vineyards, and we did our fair share of tasting at various vineyards in the area. They definitely specialize in white wines, and we bought several bottles to enjoy this summer.

My favorite hike in this area was at Watkins Glen.

There were numerous waterfalls…

… with this one near the beginning of the hike being a favorite, because you can easily see the surrounding rock layers, and not have mobs of people in the way.

The gorgeous carving the water has done in the walls was extraordinary. Unfortunately, the best day for us to visit Watkins Glen state park was on July 4.

We walked up the gorge about a mile and a half…

… with constantly changing views…

… and bottlenecks…

Steve chafed at having to snake along in a long line of people, but I really enjoyed all the views -

When we reached the end of the gorge…

… we returned back to our car via the Rim Trail, with hardly any other hikers.

We stopped by a few other waterfalls, but they had disappointing (summer) water flow. Lucifer Falls was in an impressive amphitheater -

Our next stop was Niagara Falls. We first visited the American side…

… where you can really appreciate the power and thunder of the falling water -

The picture above is of Horseshoe Falls, which was my favorite due to the scope and configuration, but it always had large amounts of spray, so was hard to photograph cleanly.

We walked across the Rainbow Bridge into Canada…

… and were able to get a panoramic view of the entire falls complex -

The American Falls is on the left, with Bridal Veil Falls as the small separate fall next to it, and in the background is Horseshoe (Canadian) Falls.

The people on the walkways are visiting the Cave of the Winds, getting soaked in the hurricane-force winds at the base of Bridal Veil Falls.

Walking along the Canadian side gives you the best views of all the falls…

… from numerous perspectives.

Steve got our best shot of Horseshoe Falls on our last day there, as the storm clouds were rolling in.

We visited a few wineries in Ontario near Niagara-on-the-Lake, specifically to sample their ice wines. I’ll bring this post to a close with a neat cloud formation -

New Brunswick & Québec

After returning to Nova Scotia, we drove northwest to head up along the east coast of New Brunswick. We stopped to visit Kouchibouguac NP and hike…

… near the coast…

… before heading inland to spend the night in Edmundston (on the northern border of Maine). I had a very enjoyable evening…

… with the reflections -

Our hotel in Quebec City was right in the heart of the Old City. We were only a couple of blocks from the impressive Chateau Frontenac Hotel…

… and I couldn’t stop taking pictures…

… from all angles -

From the Citadel on the hill overlooking the city, we had a great view of the St. Lawrence River -

We didn’t take a tour of the Citadel, but did wander for miles…

Rue Saint-Louis

… through the old streets…

Rue du Petit-Champlain

… admiring the restored city walls…

… and the juxtaposition of old and new -

I fell in love with Le Capitole, which started life as a theater, and is now a hotel -

After I found a blog that featured “the 15 prettiest streets in Old Quebec,” I was off on a scavenger hunt. I was led to Rue du Cul-de-Sac…

… with the Chateau Frontenac looming over it…

… to the old city walls…

… and the Place Royale -

This is the square where Samuel de Champlain founded the city of Quebec in 1608. The oldest stone church in North America is here also (erected in 1688) …

Notre-Dame-des-Victoires

… with a very unique altarpiece -

On our second day in the area, we drove just 15 minutes from Old Quebec to Montmorency Falls -

This waterfall is nearly 100 ft taller than Niagara Falls…

… and we could explore it from a number of angles…

… and vantage points -

Of course we climbed the 487 steps next to the falls, rather than take a cable car -

I don’t have a smooth finish for this post, so I’ll just end with a shot from our stay in Edmundston -

Yosemite National Park

We interrupted our East coast driving trip to fly across the continent to join our family for a reunion near Yosemite in northern California. We spent an energizing 2 weeks with 4 young granddaughters (aged 4+, 3+ and twin 2 year-olds) and their families. Our eldest son also was determined to get us out on a hike to “one of my favorite places in the world,” “before you can’t.”

Even though we’ve been there several times with family, I’ve never featured Yosemite in a blog, so now’s the time to share some of the beauty and majesty:

The trail is Cloud’s Rest, and it started out quite well -

As we climbed higher…

… the views expanded -

I’ve hiked Angel’s Landing in Zion NP, with its really narrow section, and I think this trail compares…

… but actually has more jaw-dropping views:

That’s Yosemite Valley off to the right of the trail along the ridge, in the picture above.

We could also see Half Dome…

… and the trail of ‘ant people’ climbing up the cables -

The view looking back down the trail -

Cloud’s Rest Trail was 13+ miles with over 3,000 ft elevation gain, and included crossing a stream in bare feet at the beginning (and end). We took 7 1/2 hours, and were very glad we had recently hiked in Nepal. :)

We also visited the Valley one day with our whole crew, enjoying Bridal Veil Falls…

… from various angles and cameras -

We also admired El Capitan -

Oh! I mustn’t forget the requisite bird shot -

California Quail

A last rock formation…

… before we leave -

We helped ferry 3 of the granddaughters and their parents to Toronto and handed them off to the other set of grandparents, before returning to Halifax and our car, to continue our road trip.

Nova Scotia

We returned to N.S. on the overnight ferry from Newfoundland and headed to our next base of Halifax. We first ventured south to explore Peggy’s Cove…

… with its “famous” lighthouse. Apparently this may be the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. Check out my video, complete with bagpiper, by clicking on the link at the end of the post to open it in your browser -

I thoroughly enjoyed wandering over the rocks…

… and watching the ocean -

The town itself was charming with picturesque coves -

… as were other small towns along the east coast -

Guess what we found? Wineries! Leave it to us to find wines to taste just about everywhere we go. They were located in the interior of the province and near the west coast.

Back to Halifax…this is the provincial capital and it lies on the east coast. We visited the Botanical Gardens…

… getting our fill of rhododendrons -

We also checked out The Citadel (not too exciting)…

… and walked along the waterfront…

… where I found this whimsical art piece -

And I liked the juxtaposition -

Probably one of the highlights of our entire Maritime driving tour was getting to experience the tidal bore coming into the Bay of Fundy up close and personal. This helps explain it a little (from the website of the company we rode with) -

“The water from the Bay of Fundy gets funneled into the shallow Shubenacadie River channels to create a surge of water. The front wave of this surge is known as the Tidal Bore. There are very few places in the world that have a tidal bore and even fewer that can compare in size! After the tidal bore goes by the river reverses direction and starts flowing inland at nearly 30km/hr. It is because of the huge volume of water forcing its way into the shallow waters that creates our rapids ranging from 4-12ft standing waves!” (We were there on an “extreme” high tide day, and the waves were truly 10-12 ft high.)

Because of the conditions, Steve did all our filming on his GoPro, so there will be a series of short videos. First, here’s a pan of the river (and how low it was) just before we headed out to the zodiacs -

You may want to watch the next video a couple of times to see how fast the water was rising, and to notice the white line of the tidal bore in the background. Also, notice where the sand bar is still visible (to contrast with the video after this one) -

Steve and I had been standing on the huge sand bar, watching the tidal bore coming in (seemingly still very far away) when our zodiac driver called us back in. The next video shows how fast the water was coming in (and the complete disappearance of the sand bar), as our driver struggled a little to join the rest of us already in the boat -

In a little out of order, this video shows the river back where we put in, just a couple of hours earlier…

… and a still showing what it was like inside the zodiac -

There were 2 drains in the bottom of the raft, with one-way valves to let the water out. After a series of standing waves calmed down around us, the boat driver would speed back down the river to catch another group of them to roller-coaster through them. I’ll end this post with the video showing the highest waves we rode -

We had a blast!!

St. John's, Newfoundland

St. John’s lies on the east coast of the island and is the province’s capital. We found a hike - the North Head Trail…

see the people as tiny black dots our on the trail?

… that gave us great coastal views…

… as well as views of the harbor -

You can see why the British chose this area to settle in the 1600’s, as the mouth of the harbor is so narrow and easily defensible. The trail clung to the wall..

… so that we had great views all along -

About halfway back, we came to The Battery, a neighborhood that sits at the mouth of the harbor -

As we walked through the narrow streets…

… I spotted an American Herring Gull and her chicks -

It’s not that photogenic, but it was cool to see the city spread out before us, as we climbed Signal Hill -

You can definitely see how it was used for defense -

What a fantastic military position!

The next day we wandered in the city, admiring the “big piles” of stone…

… and brick…

… as well as admiring the brightly painted houses..

… including “Jelly Bean Row” -

We left St. John’s to drive all the way back across Newfoundland (a day and a half!), to get back to the port to catch the overnight car ferry again back to Nova Scotia. Before we said goodbye to this beautiful island, we took one last hike near the west coast. It was the Erin Mountain Trail. On our way up, we saw a number of wildflowers blooming, including Canadian Bunchberry…

… Rhodora…

… which is in the rhododendron family -

The views on top were expansive…

… but not as great as the Pink Lady’s Slipper orchids I found!

Next up — Nova Scotia.

A Third Newfoundland Post

We headed east, reluctantly leaving the gorgeous west coast…

… but soon got to marvel at the birches (that we hadn’t been seeing because the moose eat all the seedlings) interspersed with the firs -

We were headed for one of the peninsulas that constitute the northern coast, and stayed in the town of Bonavista -

The big draw for me was the Atlantic Puffin nesting site near here -

I first visited early in the morning, hoping for good light and large numbers of birds…

… but was a little disappointed in my pictures as I reviewed them. The puffins are on an offshore island, and that picture above was taken with my 400m zoom lens and then enlarged on my computer. However, the morning light was nice on the rocky coast -

The root cellars nearby were interesting…

… and one even gave me a beautiful fox sighting -

Also, on the way back into town, the resident iceberg showed off nicely -

So I visited the puffins again around noon…

… with much better light…

… and just as many birds on shore -

Their small size (only about 8 inches tall) was surprising…

… and notable in contrast to the Herring Gull, at twice their height and weight! (You can appreciate this better if you enlarge the picture above.)

We went on a hike to nearby Spillar’s Cove in the afternoon…

… getting to see some cool sea stacks…

…and wandering along the seaside cliffs -

This was a unique plant we found -

Roseroot Stonecrop

The “Dungeon” made a nice detour -

(did you happen to notice the iceberg out to sea that photobombed the picture - in the left upper corner?)

I’ll need one more post to finish showing you why we really enjoyed our time on Newfoundland. As is common, I’ll close with sunset -

Iceberg on the left!

Newfoundland (continued)

In the US we tend to pronounce the name of the province with the stress on the first syllable, but locals stress the second syllable (newFOUNDland). Their accents varied as we made our way across the island, from general Canadian (oot and aboot) in the west, to nearly sounding Irish in St. John’s (on the east coast). I won’t belabor this now, as Steve will summarize our trip as usual, with interesting tidbits later.

Now, back to Gros Morne National Park. One of the main things tourists visiting this area do is take a boat ride into the Western Brook Pond. You should know that in Newfoundland, any body of fresh water is called a pond - even this 16km long lake:

As we had recently taken a boat ride into a fjord on the South Island of New Zealand, we passed on this activity. However, we did enjoy the stroll to get to the Pond…

… where we were kindly directed by some other tourists to take a side trail through a lovely woods. There, we found a cute Swamp Sparrow…

… tiny Scottish Primrose…

… and frogs…

… lots of frogs -

As usual, to watch the video above, tap the link at the end of this post to open it in your browser. We couldn’t really capture all the multitude of frogs hopping off the trail in front of us as we walked, but Steve captured a small representation there.

So before we proceeded up to the northern end of the Great Northern Peninsula, we had a nice last evening at the Lobster Cove Lighthouse -

With Steve’s love of history, we had to make the significant detour to the northernmost point of Newfoundland to visit L’Anse aux Meadows. This is the only known site of a Viking settlement in North America, dating to around 1,000 years ago. As we got near, the fog was rolling in…

… but hadn’t yet obscured the remains of icebergs in a cove -

I’m not sure what this sculpture had to do with Vikings, but I liked it -

That was at the beginning of the boardwalk trail through the replica of the settlement -

I included the picture above because it sets the scene of bleakness and fog, but you may want to enlarge it to see more details of the layout.

We both enjoyed our visit very much, and were thrilled to be there on the first day they started offering guided tours (June 1). Yay! We’re finally in tourist season.

We spent the night nearby, finding a nice iceberg in the cove beneath the B&B -

The next morning we did a short hike up to a hilltop overlooking the ocean…

… and coves around us -

All the little iceberg remnants were gorgeous -

As we drove back south, we passed a number of garden plots next to the highway…

… that were being readied for planting, but I couldn’t figure out how that little wooden fence would keep out moose. These plots would increase in number as we neared towns, then dwindle away after we passed through.

There were also huge stacks of wood along the highway…

… but my eye was always caught by the icebergs we drove by -

So I’ll end this note as we head east across the island province, with a reminder of the gorgeous sunsets we had on the west coast -

Newfoundland

It takes a 7-8 hr ferry ride (bringing the car) to get here, from North Sydney, Cape Breton. We booked a room on the overnight ferry, and slept remarkably well. We both wanted to visit Newfoundland because it’s definitely off the beaten track for visitors to Atlantic Canada, and it’s a mix of different ecosystems. There are lakes and mountains…

… but also bogs…

Marsh Marigold

… icebergs…

… puffins(!)…

… caribou…

… and moose, which we saw 2 of, but with no photographic proof. :(

The ferry arrived at the SW corner of the island, and after a hearty breakfast at a local cafe, we headed north. The first area we were going to explore was Gros Morne National Park. This lies along the western coast in the Great Northern Peninsula and extends east to the Long Range of mountains, which is the northern end of the Appalachians! A lot of this area is a boggy plain, dotted with innumerable bodies of water…

… that sometimes have cute inhabitants -

Apparently, moose are commonly seen on this peninsula, but no matter how far we tramped through the woods, or drove from one end of the island to the other, we were not fortunate enough to photograph one on this trip. I have yet to capture a photo of a full grown male with antlers, but Steve tried to help me out -

Gros Morne has beautiful territory for hiking, so we were definitely in our element here. The first trek we took on was to Baker’s Brook Falls (and included the Little Pond).  We walked through a bog area on boardwalks and saw the remains of Pitcher Plants just off to the side -

The official Provincial Flower is carnivorous!

I was amazed that they would have survived the winter, and not just got completely broken down.  There wasn't much for us to see, as far as vistas go...

(the ocean is that blue blur at the horizon)

... so we focused on birds (imagine that!) like this cute Black-and-white Warbler...

... and the Spruce Grouse beautifully posing...

... along with multicolored fungi -

The Brook’s Falls…

... were definitely worth the hike -

We stayed three nights in the town of Rocky Harbour (note the Canadian spelling), to easily access Gros Morne park.  So the next day we hiked to the base of Gros Morne Mountain.

Gros Morne is on the right

Table Mountain was a pretty mosaic -

We crossed a brook near a nice waterfall...

... on the way to the plateau...

... with several streams and ponds -

We thought the catkins of the Speckled Alder (you can see on the bottom right of that picture above) were quite pretty -

We needed to turn around at this valley because the route to the top was closed for a month. This was for the births and growth of the young of several species of birds and mammals.  So we enjoyed the expansive views on our way back down -

We did one more hike in the national park, but I'll cover that (and more) in the next post.  This sunset in Rocky Harbour will close out this one nicely -

Cape Breton Island

Cape Breton makes up the eastern end of Nova Scotia, and is ruggedly beautiful. Our first activity was a short hike to Egypt Falls -

I wanted the people there so you could appreciate just how wide it was. It was challenging to photograph for that reason -

Our first evening was spent at a lovely little country inn that gave us this view from our room:

At breakfast the next morning, the fog was so thick, we could only see the reflection -

We then started driving the Cabot Trail, which is a 185 mile loop around the northern portion of the island. There was astounding coastal scenery…

… and the birch trees were just starting to leaf out -

The area is known for its stunning hikes, so you can guess what we did! This was a view from the Middle Head Trail on the east coast (we drove the Cabot Trail counterclockwise) -

It was reminiscent of Acadia…

As you can see, the weather had finally cleared up. I was SO happy!

Can you see all the buoys in the cove? They mark lobster traps.

As we hiked out to the point, we happened upon…

This was the first of many that we saw on our traversing of the Maritimes. Adirondack chairs were on every porch and patio, as well as tucked along trails at viewpoints.

Remember the red sands of PEI? Well, a lot of rocks here were strikingly pink -

I like to remind you occasionally that I don’t use any filters when photographing or do any color editing of my pictures. It really looked like that! And the water was that blue.

If you “google” the Cabot Trail, you’ll probably find some version of this scene -

This was taken from a very popular scenic viewpoint on the west coast.

One of the most popular hiking trails along the Cabot Trail is the Skyline Trail. I was a little leery of having to share it with tons of other hikers, but because we were so early in the season, we were the fifth car in the enormous lot (which was nearly full when we finished our hike).

Unfortunately, the first 3 miles of the hike was pretty flat and very boring for us, so we focused on interesting small things like the lichen above, which grew all over dead branches on otherwise green spruce trees. And, surprise, we admired lots of beautiful birds and their songs -

Magnolia Warbler

When we got out to the boardwalk, we finally understood why everyone raves…

… over the views -

We also found out, as we finished the trail, that you can go out and back just to the boardwalk and only have to hike a total of 2 miles, rather than the 6 we did.

One disadvantage of visiting here in the shoulder season was that some places weren’t open. We missed hearing live Celtic music (which the island is known for); the one pub in a little town we stayed in specifically for this was to open 3 days after we left. And on a personal note, my late father’s favorite single-malt distillery was also closed and scheduled to open for the summer season the week after our visit.

I don’t have anything spectacular to close out this blog, other than the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean -

New Brunswick and PEI

For the longest time, I would see PEI in front of mussels or oysters on menus and wonder what it meant. For those of you pondering like I did, it stands for Prince Edward Island. This is the smallest in both land and population of the 13 Canadian provinces and territories. I just wanted to give that bit of explanation before I continue the story of our travels.

Driving north from Maine we entered Canada…

… in the province of New Brunswick. Our main destination was the Bay of Fundy. Steve had first read of the enormous tide changes when he was in grade school, so this was definitely on our list to see. This information sign explained the reasons well, so I’ll let you read it from here:

The Hopewell Rocks are sea stacks caused by water erosion, and they provide a natural measuring stick to be able to appreciate the tidal changes. We first saw them at high tide (41 feet that day)…

… and then were planning on going back near low tide to be able to “walk on the seafloor”, but the provincial park running the concession closed before we could get back from our hike (eyeroll). Obviously, we neglected to note this before we took off on our hike. So we made a quick stop the next morning, but the park didn’t open until a couple of hours after low tide (another eyeroll), so this was the best we could see at the time (it was also raining) -

I wasn’t able to get the exact same viewpoints, but this is easier to see the tide difference side-by-side:

Friends of ours who were visiting on the same day actually paid attention to the posted park hours and allowed me to “borrow” this picture, so you can see scale better -

Here’s another interesting manifestation of low tide -

As far as the hike that made us miss low tide at “the Rocks”, it was an easy walk through a lush woods…

… with beautiful early-spring Trilliums…

… and a pretty stream…

… where our hike ended -

After we descended the staircase, this is what we found -

See the little blue sign attached to the tree above? That meant the trail was down that streambed, through the water on slick mossy rocks. No thank you. The waterfall that we were supposed to see at the end of the trail wasn’t worth slipping and falling, ruining ourselves or my camera. I settled for this mini version -

Okay… so now we’ll go on to PEI. It is connected to New Brunswick by a 13 km bridge…

… that is Canada’s longest bridge and the world’s longest bridge over ice-covered water.

As we drove through the center of the island, we were surprised at how much of the acreage was farmland. The dirt is very red…

… due to its high iron-oxide content. It is sandy and well drained, making it very suitable for agriculture—in fact, little PEI is Canada’s largest potato producer! As we drove north across the island, we noticed fog coming in, and the ground began to “smoke” -

We reached the north shore, intending on checking out the red sand beaches and cliffs…

… but it was not your typical late May beach day weather -

Apparently, this is a popular place in warmer weather -

Because the weather was so nasty, we didn’t end up visiting any of the fifty lighthouses that PEI is known for. However, oysters are a big thing here, and we sampled several different kinds -

I read that PEI oysters exported today are all descended from ones originally from Malpeque Bay on the north coast, where the water is clear and cold. We were too early in the tourist season to be able to take a tour of an oyster farm, but we saw a number of bays filled with rafts for “suspended culture” (in contrast to traditional bottom harvesting) -

Oysters take 5-7 years to grow to market-size of 3 inches. There are 6.5 million pounds of oysters harvested annually from PEI.

Our last stop was Charlottetown, the provincial capital, with its quaint historic district…

The tulips were out in full force, letting us believe that spring was really here!

Acadia National Park

On the first day we visited Acadia, the weather wasn’t very cooperative. At least it wasn’t raining, but it was foggy -

That was at the top of Cadillac Mountain (we drove) and it was windy and freezing. We went back the next afternoon, and this is the type of view we were supposed to have -

So that first day, we opted to walk in the Sieur de Monts Spring area…

… which was lush and green. The Fiddlehead Ferns were coming up…

… the fungi were a riot of color…

… and the birches provided a nice background -

So now on to our second day in the park. From atop Cadillac Mountain you can see the string of Porcupine Islands, as well as the town of Bar Harbor -

The coast of Maine is dotted with innumerable islands -

That afternoon, we tackled a very interesting trail - the Beehive Trail. This was one of the markings that showed us where to go on the trail -

yes…straight up

It wasn’t a very long trail, but it was super fun to scramble up…

… and had great views from the top -

On our last full day in Acadia, we drove over to the Schoodic Peninsula, which is a small part of the park on the mainland (the main part of the park is on Mount Desert Island).

Schoodic Point had some really interesting rocks -

… that you could explore -

We kept seeing all this white stuff on the ground in the woods, so I had to get a close-up of it -

Reindeer Lichen

Now as we head north, we’ll bid the coast of Maine adieu -

Driving in New England

Now our next adventure is a late spring/early summer driving trip exploring a number of NE states we haven’t visited before, then heading up into the Maritime Provinces of Canada. The first new state for us was New Jersey. I had read that Cape May, on the southern tip, was a popular summer destination filled with Victorian mansions…

… and hotels just off the beach -

The weather wasn’t very cooperative for a beach walk -

We headed north and east to Connecticut…

… where we found a nice hike along a river…

… that had a waterfall feeding it -

We then moved on to Narragansett, RI and spent a couple of nights in a cottage with the largest azalea bushes I’d ever seen!

We stayed here because it was near to Newport, RI where the “summer cottages” of the Vanderbilts and the like were built (around 1900)…

… and we wanted to tour the houses, as well as walk on the Cliff Trail behind them -

I was fascinated with the gorgeous color striations in the rocks -

After Rhode Island, we moved on to Massachusetts because I always thought Cape Cod looked cool, flexing its bicep into the Atlantic. :)

We did a quick marsh walk…

… and traversed a boardwalk through an Atlantic White Cedar swamp…

… before enjoying a lobster roll in a park -

As we started driving along the coast of Maine, we stopped in to see the trolls of the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens -

These were designed and constructed by the Danish artist, Thomas Dambo…

… using recycled wood…

… and scattered through the 300 acres of the park -

I had to throw this last one in with a human for scale -

The Fiddlehead Ferns were starting to unfurl -

I will leave you with a quintessential New England landscape -

Bhaktapur, Nepal & Trip Musings

So our last day in Nepal was spent in a town just outside of Kathmandu with a really neat “old town”. As I just found out from online research, Bhaktapur has been settled since around 1000 AD.

It is known for its woodcarving…

… and temples -

This Nyatapola Temple is one of only two five-story temples in the the Kathmandu Valley, and is the tallest building in Bhaktapur, as well as the tallest temple in Nepal, at 108 ft. It was built in 1702, and has withstood 4 major earthquakes.

Many temples and buildings in the various squares were unfortunately destroyed or damaged in both 1833 and 1934 by earthquakes…

… and you can see both old and restored buildings side-by-side throughout the city -

There was also a major earthquake in 2015, and reconstruction continues…

I happened upon this neat shop during our wanderings -

This Peacock Window dates from the early 15th century, and I found it by perusing Google Maps for places to see as we explored -

Speaking of earthquake damage, I’m not sure I’d visit this second story -

Some beautiful stone and bronze work -

Here was something that made us laugh. This couple had their wedding photo engagement crashed by some Asian tourists! (so of course I had to grab a photo too)

An interesting tidbit about Nepal — nearly all buildings, and even rooms in hotels and tea houses, are secured with a sliding bolt and padlock, from the very simple…

… to quite ornate -

Odds and Ends from the Trip 

 With the extreme differences in altitude and geography during this trip, at times we forgot that we had started off by diving!  That made some folks a little bit crabby: 

Midway through Bhutan, we visited the country’s tallest statue of Buddha, which is over 50 meters/170 feet tall, and watches over the capital of Thimphu:

Our flights on this trip were uneventful despite traveling in the Himalayas—albeit with one exception.  Our Bhutan domestic flight from Bumthang to Paro (as part of our return to Kathmandu for the trek) was cancelled due to wind concerns.  Thus, we unexpectedly received the opportunity to travel 300 kilometers by car that day—which was around 50% of the width of the country.  Between that and our other automotive travels, we are comfortable in agreeing with our guide that the country does not have a single traffic light!  Overall, Bhutanese roads were in good condition, and I don’t know that we heard more than a handful of horns over the 17 days we were there. (Nepal, on the other hand….)

Another interesting thing, which apparently is consistent with Indian practice as well, is that the people in both Bhutan and Nepal commonly eat without utensils—even when dinner consists of rice heavy meals with sauces.  At first, this struck us as a bit strange, but we quickly became used to it.

Lisa previously provided many beautiful pictures of towering mountains from our trek.  Just how high were they?  During the trek, we saw ten separate mountains that were at least 6500 meters (21,325 feet) tall--more than 1000 feet higher than Mount McKinley (Denali)!

The trek also made us realize how lucky we all are to live in wealthy countries.  As you could see by the previous pictures of porters carrying such things as construction supplies and water tanks up the mountain (and, in one unphotographed case, a queen size mattress!), mechanical assistance is at a premium in Nepal.  Even our guide, however, was surprised at one instance of human ingenuity overcoming the lack of a donkey or ox:

Two things that surprised me about this trip were: 1)Both Nepal and Bhutan have rhinos and elephants in their low-altitude southern regions (I’ve always just thought of them as being the home of towering mountains); and 2) Both countries, despite their snow-capped peaks are basically in the same latitude as Florida—with most of our travels ranging between the latitudes of Orlando and Tampa.

Finally, in a 2022 post, we remarked that because of the impact of tectonic forces under the Andes, the patron saint of Colombia should be “Our Lady of Perpetual Construction.”  To which Nepal says “Let me introduce you to Lord Vishwakarma, our god of engineering and construction.”  Between the forces uplifting the Himalayas and the annual monsoons that attack the most recent improvements, the roads all seem to be under repair and construction—and progress is slow.  Our 190 Km (118 Mile) trip from Chitwan National Park to Bhaktapur on the main highway took 6 hours…  And when you got off the main highway in the mountains, things became interesting:

 Luckily, the jeep driver in that video was a local who knew the road and his vehicle well.  Over the course of a 2 hour drive, we were comfortable even as he took phone calls, and drove with one hand in our seatbelt-less vehicle!  Perhaps someone was looking over us that day:

In any event, that is it for this trip, and we will be back with something completely different in the not too distant future.

Chitwan National Park

This is the first national park of Nepal, established in 1973. It is located southwest of Kathmandu, near the Indian border, and has an area of 368 sq. miles. We stayed in a hotel just outside the park, and on our first evening there, went on a walk along a river and through a local village. The rice paddies were lush and green…

… and the animals along the river…

… were quite varied -

The fearsome guy above is a Mugger Crocodile. That common name comes from the Hindi word “magar” meaning water monster. These live in fresh or stagnant water, in contrast to saltwater crocodiles. The latter have a much narrower snout.

We next encountered Eurasian Hoopoes…

… and a White-throated Kingfisher -

And just as we were about back to the hotel, we spied a mother and youngster…

… Greater One-horned Rhinoceros! We were told very emphatically by our guide that they are not called Indian rhinos.

In 1950 there were an estimated 800 rhinos in the Chitwan area, but after the area was opened to settlement by farmers, that number had dwindled to 95 by 1970. With the establishment of Chitwan park and strong anti-poaching work, their numbers are back up to near 800 again.

The next morning we went on a river in a dugout canoe -

… and silently floated by…

… our closest encounter during our entire stay.

We also saw lots of neat birds, including this uncommon Lesser Adjutant Stork…

… and this regal Little Egret -

At the Elephant Breeding Center (which breeds elephants for use by the army and park rangers), it was very difficult to see them chained up, but the 10 day old baby was pretty cute -

That afternoon we were to go on a jeep safari, but even before we boarded the jeep, the river treated us to another mother and youngster…

… as well as a Gharial, another type of crocodile -

Our guide told us they need fresh, flowing water, rather than the stagnant water that the Muggers prefer. We visited the breeding center in Chitwan, where eggs laid in the wild are collected and hatched, and the gharials are allowed to grow undisturbed for 5-6 years before being released. This species is considered critically endangered.

Ok, back to the jeep safari…

(of course a reflection) :)

We saw several large herds of Spotted Deer, which are fairly small (see how they compare to the peacock in the next picture)…

… while they sport quite impressive antlers -

when they raise their heads, the tips of the antlers nearly reach their tail!

On our second afternoon, we had another jeep safari in a different portion of the park, and we came close to three different rhinos deep in the bush -

This was my attempt at video -

(as usual, click the link at the bottom of the email to watch the video in your browser)

We also spied some Black-faced Langurs…

… with their amazing tails -

Since I don’t have a spectacular ending photo, I’ll just wish you a happy roll-in-the-mud!

Last word on Nepal trekking

I’ll open with the flag, so I don’t forget to share -

It’s the world’s only non-rectangular flag. The red stands for bravery and the rhododendron, the national flower, while the blue border represents peace. The moon and the sun are included in hopes that Nepal will have the same longevity.

Ok, back to hiking… we took a last look around at the pass, before tackling the descent. At the pass, we actually didn’t know what the back side was going to be like until we were in the thick of it. It was steep, with innumerable switchbacks loaded with snow and ice. It was also beautiful.

These shale looking hills with glaciers behind them were striking -

Speaking of “hills”… our guide told us that, in Nepal, names are only given to mountains higher than 7000 meters. All the others are just hills. :)

As we continued descending, we started to see trees again -

Just to summarize… the day of the Pass crossing, we hiked a total of 22 km (13.67 miles), taking 12 hours (including an hour break for lunch), while ascending 2,000 ft, then descending 5,000 ft. Whew! Did we sleep well that night!

Above is the little village we spent the night in, and you can see the mountains we descended from, while the next picture shows the view we had as we left the next morning -

Now, this day’s hike was probably my favorite of the whole trek. We were heading down and out of altitude (no more thin air and panting), the pines surrounding us were bathing us in fantastic aromas, and flowers started showing up.

Rhododendrons, cherry blossoms and ‘old man’s beard/Spanish moss’

We had already seen the bright red rhododendrons, but when we saw magenta

… and then pink

… I was in seventh heaven! I had already resigned myself to only seeing a few red rhododendrons, because we were too early for the hillsides to be covered in the variety of colors I was dying to see. Needless to say, I was a happy woman… until I saw what the trail was like ahead -

There had been multiple rock- and landslides…

… but luckily, plenty of boots had trod a fairly well demarcated path until we got to…

There actually was a trail there, heading upwards in the sand, but I sure didn’t like walking on a thin ledge of shifting sand that was only as wide as one boot -

This was truly the hairiest part of the whole trek!

Here are some random pics that didn’t fit the storyline, but I wanted to share -

Our stats summary - 11 days of hiking, totaling 148 km (92 miles), starting at 930 m (3051 feet) elevation and peaking at 5130 m (16,831 feet).

Keep on Trekking...

As we descended from the yak pastures and the Pungan Gompa monastery, we passed a herd of Himalayan Tahr (mountain goats). The males are much hairier and with bigger horns…

… than the females -

We had not only donkeys pass us on the trail, but yaks too. (another video here, so click the link at the bottom of the post to open it in your browser so you can watch)

(note the variety of horn sizes and orientations above)

Now a few words on accommodations on the trek. We were told we’d be staying in “tea houses” but had no idea what that meant, other than it wasn’t camping in tents. We had to provide our own toilet paper, shampoo and soap for the trip, as well as bring our own towels. A ‘luxurious’ room would have a double bed and in room electric socket to charge our devices, while less fancy places had a bed and hopefully an “en suite” bathroom -

For those who might not recognize it, the attached bathroom above had a squat toilet. These are everywhere in Nepal, and our thighs got very strong on this trek! Sinks and running water are a rarity, and soap and towels are not to be found. Locals think nothing of running their hands under a pipe at the side of a trail and then letting them airdry in freezing temps. We were lucky to have hot showers at a number of our stays, but most of the time, they were in a separate shed away from our room, and if there was a window, it was just a square opening in the wall with minimal cover over it. Try getting all wet standing on a cold concrete floor with 40 degree wind blowing on you, and I’ll bet you won’t be too happy with your “hot” shower. So we treated this trip as glorified camping (but definitely not glamping). Nicely, every bed had clean sheets and comforters with clean duvets, even if none had heat.

On an acclimatization day, we stayed at our tea house (at 12,000 ft) for 2 nights, and only took a short hike to Biendra Lake (above). There we met a cute little guy sharpening his pencil to practice writing his English letters -

We also strolled through the village, discovering that the locals lived in the house level above the yaks and chickens in the yard, and laundry was always hung out to dry everywhere on a sunny day -

This was also where we saw yak dung drying on walls…

… and higher up the trail warmed up next to stoves in tea houses (above the treeline) powered by dried patties.

Our hiking next led us to a stop around 12,700 ft where we did a short walk above the village…

… to sit and watch for marmots -

We were surprised at how stocky and muscular they were -

From what I read about Himalayan Marmots - they are among the largest in the world, weighing 9-20 lbs! I found their long tails, legs and toes fascinating.

Onward and upward was the plan every day. Our itinerary originally had us spend another rest day at this altitude, but because we hadn’t developed any signs of altitude sickness, and the weather was forecast to be great for the next 2 days, our guide recommended we push on. We were game for this, so we just kept climbing…

… past glacial moraines…

… until we found the Stairway to Heaven. :)

At this altitude, we were just crawling up the mountain. I just kept putting one foot in front of the other at an unbelievably slow pace (about 1 mile per hour) so I wouldn’t be panting, and we always finished our planned hikes. We were among the oldest people we saw during this trek, with most hikers being 20 - 40 year olds. The younger ones would blow past us, but then take longer breaks, and we would be the turtles, just plodding by them, not stopping.

This was the camp where I started the Nepal posting…

(sorry it’s kinda distorted - I must have tapped the ultrawide option on my cellphone)

… and there definitely were no en-suite cabins. In fact, the stone hut in the left side of the picture above contained the only 2 squat toilets for the 15 or so hikers spending that night, at over 14,000 ft. Of course, that would be the night that I had to get up three times during the night!

So that we would be at the pass the next day before winds would pick up, we had to leave at 0430. Steve took a reasonably good selfie -

And we hiked on… and up … and on…

It was brutal, but gorgeous -

there were hanging glaciers everywhere we looked

The Larke La Pass was anticlimactic…

… as we still had to climb higher…

(see the tiny people near the right side of the picture?)

… before we could start to descend. Steve’s tracker marked our highest elevation gained at 5133 m (16,840 ft). Thus, this is officially the highest we have ever hiked. It took us 5 hours to get up, and more than that to descend to our tea house for the night. We were completely wiped out by a grueling descent in snow, ice and loose rocks, which made us glad we had brought micro-spikes to attach to our boots. As our toughest hike ever, we were glad that this is now in the books. I didn’t take many pictures as we cursed, slid and trudged our way down, but I’ll close with this one, and take up the rest of the story later -

(did you notice the glacier at the right side of the photo?)

Nepal Trekking

I wanted to hike in the Himalayas to truly experience their majestic and rugged beauty.  We signed up with an experienced trekking agency that was very thorough in describing the hiking, and ensuring that we had all the appropriate clothing and gear for a successful journey.  Our English speaking Nepalese guide took excellent care of us all along the way, and prepared us well for each day’s undertaking.  Our porter was a man smaller and thinner than me who carried our 50 lbs of clothing and gear along all the miles of trails that we covered.

That picture above was the first of many suspension bridges we crossed.  For our first two days, we basically parallelled the course of the Budhi Gandaki River.

I’ll summarize all the stats at the end of our trip, but just know that we covered 38 km (24.5 miles) in those first two days, and sweated a lot as we hiked.  We started at about 3,000 ft of elevation.  They grow bananas here!

The ranks of hills…

…definitely grew more imposing as we hiked on –

This was a common sight…

… and we quickly learned how to safely pass donkey trains heading at us – stay on the side of the trail that is against the mountain, so they won’t nudge you off. For the next video, click the link at the bottom of the post to open it in your browser, so you can watch it.

As that train passed us, I was telling the one donkey that got out of line and headed for me, “This is my rock and I’m staying here”.  As you probably noticed, none of the donkeys had lead ropes or were tied to another.  The driver of the train always brought up the rear, and usually there were one or two stragglers walking slowly after him.  The driver in the video said “Namaste!” as he passed.  This is a common greeting in Nepal.

one of those stragglers I mentioned

We saw several interesting things being carried by people (rather than donkeys), like rolls of tubing…

… and a large water storage container (1,000 liters) -

This bridge was called Long Bridge, and it truly was the longest one we tramped over -

Here’s another view of Long Bridge after we crossed it and continued upriver -

As we slowly climbed higher, we saw more snowy peaks -

The trek we were on was called the Manaslu Circuit. It is a less traveled trek than Everest Basecamp or the Annapurna Circuit, and that is exactly why I chose it. Mt. Manaslu is in the western portion of Nepal and is the 8th highest mountain in the world at 8163 m (26,781 ft). My favorite morning (our fourth) was when I got up to catch sunrise lighting up Manaslu…

… and the peaks around it -

That day we started by visiting a new Buddhist temple…

… that wasn’t occupied yet -

My favorite day continued with us climbing really high into yak pastures…

can you see the yaks and stupa in the lower center?

… to reach the Pungen Gompa Monastery at 13,175 ft (4016 m). The yaks were as peaceful as the surroundings -

The monastery was very simple…

… but the setting was just superb -

I’ll share more pictures in the next post, as we continued climbing ever higher.

Return to Kathmandu

As I type this post, I’m sitting looking over a desolate hillside at 14,750 ft. waiting until tomorrow morning, when we set off at 0430 to cross the Larke La Pass, at 16,751 ft.  This is the view from our (unheated) shed:

But I’m getting ahead of myself – After we flew back from Bhutan into Kathmandu again, we went on a day tour of areas in the city that we had not explored on our own.  Our first stop was the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest in Nepal and one of the largest in the world –

We had a nice breakfast in a restaurant overlooking it –

Our next area to visit was the Pashupatinath Temple, one of the most revered Hindu places in the world.  According to our guide, many Hindus try to make a pilgrimage here at least once in their life.  It was a huge complex…

… that became very crowded in places -

Also included in the complex was a crematorium…

… where we watched one family…

…send their recently departed member on to the next life –

(as usual, to watch the next video, open this post in your browser by clicking the link at the bottom of the post)

Our final place to visit was Patan Durbar Square.  We had seen the Kathmandu Durbar Square (Royal Palace), and this one was in a neighboring enclave –

There were numerous temples…

… and buildings originally built in the 1600s (but rebuilt over the years due to earthquake or fire damage) –

The actual palace grounds had been turned into a museum -

Now the next day, we set off on an 8 hr road trip to the west…

… through the Nepali countryside covered in terraces…

… and got to see rice planting –

It was actually early in spring that we arrived, and there were few fields planted and even fewer blooming plants.

We drove on rough gravel roads…

… until they literally ended in this town of Machha Khola, where we spent our first night –

As I was doing my yoga (to keep my back limber enough to withstand hiking) out in the common ground of our “tea house” (read rustic hostel), these local girls wanted to have their picture taken –

Their smiling faces are a good place to end this post.  I’ll continue our trekking adventure in the next one.

Bhutan notes continued

I always try to get a photo of a country’s flag when we visit, so here is Bhutan’s -

The “Land of the Thunder Dragon” is depicted in the center, while the yellow represents the king as head of the government, and the orange represents Buddhism and the importance of religion to the people.

Now my next topic is food, starting with growing…

because so many of the fields need to be terraced, there is little mechanization.

… selling…

This was a massive 2 story market in Thimpu, hosting local farmers, which is open daily. Note the huge bags of red chiles in that front stall.

… and serving. The Bhutanese love their chiles! The picture below depicts a typical lunch…

the dish above the rice is solely sauteed peppers (and they’re very hot!)

… with rice being the largest portion, the majority of the dishes being vegetables, and for us Westerners, a small dish of some type of protein (often so tough or dry as to be almost inedible). There are many kinds of rice grown here, with Red being the main staple –

Because we were not visiting in the height of tourist season, Steve and I would often be the only ones eating in the large hotel dining room. This felt pretty odd. We would first be approached by staff, asking if we wanted “teacoffee?” - always run together like that - and be met with surprise when we asked for cold water. Once we were brought drinking glasses filled with hot water. “Milk tea” is offered when you visit a home, or as you first come in to a hotel and are getting registered. It was not very tasty to me, but “butter tea” was better. The names of the drinks describe their ingredients.

As I mentioned in my first post, staircases are just not a thing here, unless a building was built in the last 20? yrs or so. We learned to maneuver up and down the steep ladders pretty well, but this one, in a “heritage” house (read over 100 yrs old) really tested us -

the tread was so narrow that you couldn’t fit the entire ball of your foot on it

Besides little space heaters, wood stoves are used everywhere, including in our last hotel room stay in Bumthang -

We thoroughly enjoyed a Hot Stone Bath at our farmhouse stay. To heat the bath, stones were taken from a roaring fire and dropped into the water on the other side of the wooden partition. Wow, was that hot!

The stone column in the next picture shows the most tasteful example of a common good luck symbol, which we saw in many places in the country. It is based upon the legendary exploits of a 16th century guru commonly referred to as “the Divine Madman” -

The national dress, Kira for women and Gho for men, are worn daily, not just for festivals, and this is also the uniform for children at school.

the man in grey on the left of the picture is holding a handheld prayer wheel that is spun, in addition to holding his prayer beads

It was interesting to talk to some school children, noting no accent to their English (they sounded American), in contrast to their parents. This is probably because instruction at school is delivered in English.

Archery is the national sport and it was very interesting to watch a “pick-up” match between friends -

The targets were 150 meters (492 ft) apart!

You may have seen prayer flags in the background of some of my pictures. They are ubiquitous here.

They can be hung either vertically or horizontally. The 5 colors represent the 5 elements - water, wind, fire, living things and earth. Their primary purpose is to spread positive energy and compassion to all beings.

As threads are loosened from the edges of the cloths, the wind carries the prayers aloft. You commonly find them hung at mountain passes.

I will bring my reflections of this peaceful country to a fitting close: