Driving Miss Lisa [around New Zealand]

In the 53 days that we had our Toyota Corolla, we drove 8700 kilometers (~5400 miles).  We left Auckland airport, went south, looped the South Island in a rough figure 8, then came back and did the same in the North:

(To see a full sized, interactive version of the map, just click on the full screen symbol in its top right corner.)

The roads are, as expected, pretty good.  Just don’t be silly and expect multiple lane freeways outside of the very biggest cities. The major 2-lane highways have fairly frequent passing lanes, and you are alerted adequately to one-lane bridges, including which direction has the right of way. Generally, signage is exceptional, particularly on the major motorways in the heart of Auckland.  

The signs, however, can be different than those we are used to: 

This one is pretty easy!

Although we didn’t see any Kiwis in the wild, we apparently were in many of their territories:

I was initially perplexed at how many schools had the same name:

…Until we figured out that New Zealand has two official spoken languages, and since 2022, new school warning signs need to be in both te reo Maori and English!

One really neat sign that we saw in a few places is used to warn of an upcoming communal meeting house of the Maori community, where pedestrians of all ages might be present:

Granny and child.

New Zealand has 5,300,000 people, and 103,483 square miles.  Or, the population of South Carolina in an area the size of Colorado.  Those numbers are  actually misleading though, because a whopping 30% of the people live in Auckland alone–and the urban population amounts to 87%. (Compared to 80% in USA)  So, there are a lot of wide-open places, with Northland reminding me of Appalachia and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, and the western side of the South Island being very reminiscent of the American West. This is true even with respect to the type of commercial traffic that is on the roads:

Pretty common in both Northland and the west of the South Island.

These logging trucks were a common occurrence on the roads.  As Lisa noted earlier there are presently about 5 sheep for every person in NZ, but that is a historic low.  In the 1980’s, it actually achieved  22 sheep for every human!  But, the declining price of sheep’s wool, and the increasing value of farmed trees, have caused a continued decline. 

 Particularly outside of the major cities, stop signs and traffic lights are rare; like many countries, New Zealand instead embraces roundabouts.  As normal, those already in the roundabout have the right of way—but there is always some exception to the rule!

Yeah, the train pretty much always wins!

Finally, like in the USA, some signs just made us want to say “Duh.”

“Two Nations Divided by a Common Language”

That joking observation is generally applied to describe the US and England, but it applies equally well to the US and New Zealand.

Looking for a cooler to keep your food and drinks chilled on drives between lodgings? You’ll need to ask for a “Chilly Bin.”

Looking for a tasting room at the winery? The proper term is “Cellar Door.”

And this sign is not related to batteries at all (although it does make a feline non-lover wonder):

A boarding kennel for cats—and this particular one is highly reviewed on Google!

“Grouper” is pronounced “Gropa.”

No is “nawr.”

When you greet oncoming hikers on a trail, the proper terminology is “Hi Ya".”

A “boot sale” at the county farmers’ market has nothing to do with footwear—but there sure are a lot of cars with things for sale in their trunks.

Despite asking and being given examples, we are still at a complete loss as to how to differentiate between a Kiwi and an Aussie based on their speech—although both nationalities claim that it is obvious!

Tidbits for American Travelers:

“Nashville style” frozen chicken strips (huh?!?) in the frozen section of the grocer.

Petrol: usually around  2.80 NZ per liter ($6.28 USD per gallon).  Most expensive was 3.25NZ ($7.30).

Portapotties are everywhere–even in midst of long mountain hikes, where they sometimes appear to be serviced via helicopter. Consistently clean and well stocked with toiled paper. And, when you are driving, small towns will have well marked public toilets (often in the local library).

24/7 fuel stations usually require a chip and PIN credit card–very few of them have been updated to allow pay by phone.

If you are interested in nice meals, we found the NZ cuisine magazine website to be a handy place for evaluations of restaurants around the country–especially its “hatted restaurant” listing: https://www.cuisine.co.nz/cgfg2023-hatted-restaurants/.  (And, if you are really interested, we’ve kept a list of the best restaurants and wineries that we encountered.)

If you are like me, your only real exposure to “hedgerows” comes from Led Zeppelin and Harry Potter. New Zealand, however, takes its hedgerows seriously.

These are basically full-sized trees!

Pasture line, or Berlin Wall??

We definitely recommend the Auckland Zoo, where we spent most of our last day in country. As we prepared to fly off to Fiji, this fellow bade us goodbye:

(To see the video, you’ll need to click the “Read in browser” link below this!)

Northland

This is a region on the North Island that encompasses most of the northern end, north of Auckland. The Bay of Islands that I described in my last post is also included in this designation; but in our mind “Northland” is the sparsely populated area north of that, stretching from coast to coast.

Our main goal was to reach Cape Reinga, which is quite near the northernmost point of the country. It made for a very long day of travel, taking 3+ hours just to get there -

That view above is actually before you reach Cape Reinga Lighthouse…

(did you spot the lighthouse?)

… and this was taken from the lighthouse -

The waters of the southern Pacific Ocean clash forcefully with those traveling east from the Tasman Sea -

In Maori, Cape Reinga/Te Rerenga Wairua means “the leaping off place of the spirits” -

The solitary tree you see clinging to the bare rock is a sacred pohutukawa, and is regarded as the gateway to the underworld -

And that is the northernmost point of NZ. Steve’s panorama may give you a sense of the grandeur of the place -

On the west coast, just south of the Cape are Giant Sand Dunes…

… that we opted not to visit, due to numerous other stops on our long itinerary for the day, and the fact that we have visited enormous sand dunes in Colorado and Peru. I just mention them, in case you like to do sandboarding and would want to visit them on your own trip.

Driving away from the Cape, I was struck by the uniqueness of the red volcanic soil. Everywhere else in the country, soil is either black or brown.

Further down the east coast is Rarawa Beach…

… a huge expanse of blindingly white fine sand…

(did you see the tiny car for scale?)

… that nicely showcased these Pied Stilts -

Continuing our drive back south, we just had to stop in at 90 Mile Beach on the west coast -

Yes, you could drive on it for the entire length, but we didn’t have 4WD nor the time to devote to that.

It’s actually only 55 miles long, but the early Europeans traversing it on horseback took three days to do so, and they knew that they usually covered 30 miles in a day, hence the name. They didn’t account for the slower pace of the horses in the sand.

It was definitely impressive, and quite empty.

We finally reached our lodgings in Opononi on the west coast after a 10 hour day of driving and exploring (probably our longest of the trip). The next morning we got to see the awesome view from our deck -

We had a nice short day planned. Along the way I got this shot from Pakia Hill overlook, highlighting various shades of blue and green -

We were aiming for the Waipoua Forest, which is the home of Tane Mahuta (Lord of the Forest), the largest kauri tree in New Zealand -

We tried to give a sense of the awesome scale with this video (open this email in your browser by clicking the link at the end) -

The girth (circumference) of the tree is 45 ft, and it is estimated to be 2,000 yrs old. Kauris are second only to Giant Sequoias in the US as the largest trees in the world.

Their bark has very beautiful patterns…

… and the number of different ferns and mosses they harbor was quite interesting -

We enjoyed wandering the forest paths, admiring plants and fungi…

… both small and large -

That picture was Steve’s composition. He’s developing quite the eye!

We finished this part of our trip by visiting the Kauri Museum in Matakohe, and highly recommend it.

that was a phone booth sized sitting area within a 35,000 year-old kauri stump recovered from a swamp

We dropped off our car in Auckland (Steve will give you a post with all the numbers and some trivia), and spent 2 nights in the city. We visited the zoo, just so we could finally see kiwis. There were a couple of times during our travels that we could have driven an hour each way at night, to walk in a dark forest, hoping to see them. We passed on those, and opted for the easy way out with the Kiwi House at the zoo. The lights are very low during the day so you can watch these nocturnal feeders going about their business. The next video is dark, and you may have to watch it a couple of times to better make out the kiwis - they are the dark lumps about the size of chickens, moving around.

Here are some taxidermy specimens so you can get an idea of what they really look like -

All right. So this is the last post from New Zealand. What an awesome trip! I just couldn’t decide which picture I wanted to end with, so lucky you, you get a series of my favorite places.

Dawn in Mt. Cook Village

Milford Sound

my favorite reflection

So long for now!

Paihia/Bay of Islands

Well, you may be happy to hear that you’ll soon see the very last waterfall we visited on this trip. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day, so we didn’t get a chance to see its namesake rainbows…

… but Rainbow Falls did put on a pretty good show -

There was some nice greenery, as well as basalt columns (yay!) -

Our next stop was in Kerikeri, where New Zealand’s oldest stone building still stands (from 1836), and it has been a continuously operating store since then -

Nearby is the oldest surviving building in New Zealand, the Kemp House (1822) -

These were built as part of the Kerikeri Mission Station, established by the Church Missionary Society from England. Interestingly, the local Maoris accepted the missionaries peacefully (as a means to obtain guns) and protected them from other warring tribes, while the missionaries accepted the protection and recognized that they were to be cooperative members in this new land, and not conquerors.

We settled in Paihia for a few days to enjoy the Bay of Islands…

… where we opted to hike rather than take a cruise -

First we hiked through “bush” as they call it here..

… crossing a few streams by balancing on rocks…

… before ambling along a bay -

The path started getting interesting then…

… and sometimes you don’t want this interesting -

It was essentially straight up, as in rock-climbing, but with a guide rail to help when the natural rock didn’t provide big enough hand or foot holds for novice (old) climbers. We were definitely happy to make it to the top -

The views…

… were worth it!

And you can see why it’s called the Bay of Islands.

As we left the area, we visited the Puketi Forest…

… where there are some massive specimens…

… of the beautiful kauri trees.

I plan to talk about them in some detail in the next post, so I’ll leave you here, saying goodbye from Paihia -

Water, water everywhere...

I realized when I was reviewing pictures for this post that we enjoyed various manifestations of water on the day we left Waiheke Island. On the ferry coming back to Auckland, we had this view of the city -

We then headed back over to the west coast, which at this point on the island is only 40 km from downtown. I owe this part of our trip to Steve for doing the research (even as we were in-country) and finding an area I thought we weren’t going to have time to explore. A waterfall was first up, but it turned out to be somewhat of a dud…

… when we got up close. This is Karekare Falls, for those keeping track.

The parking lot for the falls also served the nearby beach of the same name, so we walked out to it, along an estuary…

… until we were going to have to do some wading to get there. We had several more stops, so we turned around here -

I had read about the beach at the nearby town of Piha, so on a whim, I asked Steve to stop and let us check it out. Check out the tiny specks of people on the sand -

Talk about gorgeous…

… and huge -

I kept getting lost in the reflections…

… and enjoying the waves -

It was really hard to leave…

… but guess what? We had more waterfalls to hunt! Paranui Falls was a short side trip…

… from our main quarry of Whangarei Falls -

After getting to the base…

… where I really admired all the greenery, we walked along the river…

… for a couple of miles. We came across some redwoods(!)…

… and a massive sycamore…

… before walking through a forest reserve on an elevated walkway …

…with some seriously tall endemic trees -

Those are kauri trees, which are treasured by the Maori as a sign of the well being of the forest. Unfortunately they are under attack from a disease called “kauri dieback”. Along a number of trails we hiked, we had to clean and disinfect our shoes/boots as we entered and left a forest reserve.

So, one last goodbye from Whangarei Falls -

From West Coast to East Coast

We only spent one night near the glow worm caves, because there were so many other things to see while moving on. Our goal for the end of the day was a small town on the east coast - Whangamata. But first, I wanted to check out a little known Hot Water Beach in Kawhia on the west coast. Of course a waterfall along the way merited a stop - Marokopa Falls -

This was probably the fullest fall we saw throughout our travels! All the others were fairly thin because we’re into autumn here, after a dry summer. For scale for this fall, look at the fern trees; they’re at least 6-10 feet high. This fall is 115 ft high -

The next pictures aren’t too exciting, but they illustrate something we saw all over NZ.

The rows you see in the hillside are not manmade or have anything to do with the boulders scattered there. They are caused by tracks taken by grazing animals (usually sheep, but also cows) over many decades. A lot of the time, they were covered in bright green grass -

Now on to the hot water beach -

There are areas on both coasts of the country that have hot springs relatively close to the surface. The famous Hot Water Beach on the east coast sees hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, so when I heard about the “little known” one on the west coast, I knew we had to visit it. You can only access the hot area of the beach at low tide, and our visit corresponded to that very well.

That family had already dug a nice sized pool for them to sit in. We tried to find a warm area for ourselves, but the hot springs must be pretty narrow, because we never found an area we could use. We did notice as we dug, the water in the depression had globules of oil floating on top. So we decided we were content with wandering a bit…

… and getting some neat pics -

We drove across the country - actually only 200 km or 3 hrs…

… enjoying the scenery, and stopping at Karangahake Gorge to walk through an old (half mile long) railroad tunnel…

… and walk back to our car along the river -

Another waterfall we visited briefly was Owharoa Falls -

As you may have guessed, I had a list of the top waterfalls in New Zealand. :)

The beach at Whangamata was pretty…

… and we had it nearly to ourselves -

Now before I leave, I’m going to include Waiheke Island in this post. It is just offshore of Auckland, and has car ferries going to it.

It has gorgeous rolling hills…

… many of which are covered in vineyards -

Bet you can’t guess what we did in our 1 1/2 days on the island??

One last waterfall to close - Hunua Falls -

(did you catch the rainbow at the bottom of the falls?)

West Central North Island

I have tended to use a city or town as the title for a blog post, but we drove a lot this day, seeing a number of cool things. As we headed north from New Plymouth, we were passing through a lot of rolling hills covered in grass (and some forest) -

(please forgive the road cones - this was a perfect example of the countryside I wanted to share)

We then started seeing more limestone outcroppings…

… interspersed with cows -

We drove an hour and a half past our ultimate destination for the night, because I really wanted to see Bridal Veil Falls. It starts very innocuously as this shallow stream…

… before plummeting 180 ft over the edge of a cliff -

I absolutely fell in love with this waterfall…

… for a number of reasons. First, there were three different viewing platforms to appreciate it. This view from the middle one was my favorite…

… because when the sun was shining, you got a cool rainbow effect -

Steve captured it well on his phone for this video -

(as usual, open this email in your browser by clicking the link at the end of the post so you can watch the video)

From the viewing platform at the base of the falls, you could see the basalt columns forming the bowl for it.

They reminded me of all those we saw in Iceland and Ireland. The final reason I really loved this waterfall was that it is considered a sacred space to the Maori, so no swimming is allowed. It was wonderful to enjoy the peace and beauty of this unspoiled corner of nature.

The area around Waitomo was our ultimate destination that evening, as I had booked a tour to see glow worms in a cave. This area of the country is riddled with limestone caves, often with streams running through them -

That’s the mouth of the cave we walked in, alongside the stream (on a walkway, staying dry). We wore hardhats with lights on them, but our guide gradually got everyone comfortable with turning their lights off, so he could show us the glow worms -

The glow worms are actually small (about half an inch long) and live on the roof of the cave. The strings are mucous threads they secrete to capture tiny flying insects…

… attracted by the glow at the end of their body -

Again, Steve got a great video for us with his phone. We were sitting in a small raft that our guide pulled along a cable strung above the underground stream. The sound you’ll hear in the next video is the waterfall we came near but didn’t go over. (if you can, watch the video on full screen - it gives you the best effect)

This video just can’t do justice to the feeling of awe you experience when floating silently along in a pitch black cave, with the only light you see produced by thousands of little blue lights on the ceiling and reflected in the river. It was truly magical.

If you get to New Zealand, we would highly recommend the small company we used - Spellbound. (and as you know by now, I almost never tout specific companies)

We finished our day with a picnic, sharing the sunset with the local cows -

I have to close with one last picture of one of my favorite places in NZ -

Back to the North Island

We took the ferry back to Wellington, the country’s capital - and the world’s windiest (capital) - where we just spent 2 nights before moving on. We visited Te Papa (The Museum of New Zealand). It is massive, and we managed to get through 2 of 4 stories before my back and legs screamed for a break. We’d highly recommend anyone visiting Wellington to visit this free museum (shout out to my sister who recommended it to us!).

We also walked through the Wellington Botanic Garden, where I got some pictures of a Tui, another endemic bird. It’s beautiful!

You might need to enlarge that picture to see the variety of brilliant colors on its wing and back, and to better see the interesting tuft of feathers under his neck. On the nape of his neck, he had a gorgeous “mane” -

I was going to upload the audio of his call, but I came to my senses figuring that I was getting too deep in the weeds for most of you. ;)

Since I didn’t get many pictures in Wellington, I’ll move on…

… sharing the early signs of autumn we were seeing, as well as the surrounding countryside -

It was hard to get a good picture of the expansive pastures filled with dairy cattle, and extending to the ocean. We were continually amazed by the number of dairy herds we saw.

Some interesting stats - in New Zealand, there are about 6 million dairy cattle, 3.75 million beef cattle, 5 million people, and 25 million sheep!

We were heading NW out of Wellington, aiming for Mt. Taranaki…

… which rose suddenly out of the plains surrounding it, to stand as the second tallest mountain on the North Island. There was a technical (read mountaineering) hike to its peak, but that’s beyond our skill level, so we were quite happy to find there was a road to a viewing platform. As we started out that morning, it looked like a spectacular day…

… but clouds quickly moved in, causing a peek-a-boo game as we got closer -

My patience at the viewpoint…

… was finally rewarded -

As waterfalls have been my goal on many hikes here, we just had to check out Dawson Falls…

… where we enjoyed our lunch -

We also enjoyed a walk through the “Goblin Forest” in Egmont National Park (where Mt. Taranaki is located)…

… where the layers of growing things on top of others was quite profuse -

We stayed in New Plymouth, which is on the SW corner of the North Island, and spent quite a few hours wandering in Pukekura Park…

… which gave me some beautiful subjects…

… as well as a surprise photobomb -

I was so focused on capturing the reflection of the bridge above, that I didn’t even notice Mt. Taranaki peeking in!

My last picture reminded me of the spring y’all are enjoying (and that I’m somewhat sorry to be missing) -

Nelson

Driving north out of Hokitika, along the coast, it was a grey, rainy day -

We had planned on stopping at Punakiki Pancake Rocks…

… and nicely, the sun came out intermittently just as we came to the prettiest part -

Scientists aren’t exactly sure why this area has layers of limestone interspersed with layers of softer mudstone, but it sure was neat -

There were also channels (and caves) cut by the surf…

… forming sonically interesting blowholes. To hear the next video, open it in a browser by clicking the link at the end of the email, and make sure your speakers are turned up high -

The booming was amazingly loud in person - hopefully you can appreciate some of it from the video.

We continued on up the coast, with the sun playing peek-a-boo for awhile…

… but then started to stay out…

… as we turned inland, following the Buller River -

I finally got a decent picture of the deer raised for the venison we frequently see on restaurant menus -

One of the reasons I wanted to stay in Nelson, was its proximity to Abel Tasman National Park, encompassing the NW corner of the South Island. To get to our trailhead, we had to book a water taxi…

… to take us along the shore…

… showing us local landmarks…

Split Apple Rock

… before dropping us off at Anchorage Bay -

In the next picture, the body of water that is turquoise, and extends off the R side, is Anchorage Bay as seen from the track after we had climbed a bit -

We walked 8 miles back…

… passing along verdant coastline, and through thick bush of endemic trees -

There were many isolated bays with sandy beaches…

… and we treated ourselves to lunch on one of them -

Carrying on…

… we could finally see our destination (the gathering of white buildings at the base of the ridge in the next picture) -

As we walked on the boardwalk over the marsh at the end, this Pukeko was searching for dinner -

Our stay in Nelson marks the end of our month on the South Island. I’ll close with a shot of Nelson Bay -

Hokitika

Driving further up the west coast, we based ourselves in Hokitika so that we could get some beach time, as well as check out Arthur’s Pass. At least by the maps I consulted, there are only 2 passes through the Southern Alps - Haast Pass in the south, which we used to go from Wanaka to Franz Josef Glacier; and Arthur’s Pass in the north. There was a short hike to a waterfall, which we just had to do, of course. This viaduct served the road we took…

… and this scenery greeted us near the top -

The Devil’s Punchbowl Falls…

… would only give me a piece to work on, softening the water flow -

We went out and back to Arthur’s Pass on the day we arrived in town, as it was a 90 minute drive each way. The scenery was quite bucolic -

Once in Hokitika, we checked out the beach…

… which was quite wide at low tide, and pretty deserted -

Besides black sand, the beach was composed of numerous stones that had been scoured smooth -

An interesting activity in the town was visiting -

Glow-worms are the larvae of the fungus gnat. They have a glowing light on their tails that attracts prey. Glow-worms do not fly, like lightning bugs, but rather hang around waiting for little insects to come to them. On our first night in town, we followed Google Maps to walk to the dell, just about 5 minutes from our cottage. I took the tripod so I could get a prolonged exposure -

The next day I walked back to find out what the area really looked like in which we had been stumbling around in the dark -

We also visited Hokitika Gorge…

… that had a short hike to different viewpoints -

The blue was even more pronounced when in contrast with the white rock shore or surrounding greenery -

If this Weka doesn’t look nearly prehistoric, I don’t know what does. ;)

In each country we visit I try to get a picture of its flag. This windy day was perfect -

And that’s about it for Hokitika!

Franz Josef Glacier

That’s actually the name of the town and not just the glacier itself.

As we left Wanaka, we passed by gorgeous Lake Wanaka for the last time…

…headed into even higher mountains…

… and along gloriously clear streams -

On our way we had stopped to take pictures of a waterfall (actually not that great), and luckily chatted with a bicyclist who said the road ahead was going to close at 1 pm (it was then 12:50) and not reopen until 5 pm! We literally ran back to our car, as Steve was quickly putting the tripod back together, and we drove off down the road. We got to the closure point at 12:55, and the road crew man said he’d be right back to lead us through, after he put up the “road closed” sign just behind us! Whew!

We were then able to take our time at Thunder Creek Falls, but because it was so tall (92 feet) and slender, it’s a bit underwhelming in pictures.

I liked this view of the base, with the pretty blue creek passing in front -

As we continued on toward the West Coast, we passed by this valley (but I don’t know the name of the mountain there) -

We also kept crossing wide alluvial river beds where there was a lot of braiding going on -

The west coast of the South Island is commonly referred to as the “wild west coast”, and it’s sparsely populated. Once we reached the coast and were driving north, we’d pass some beautiful photo ops…

… as well as a number of massive empty beaches -

We reached our accommodation in Franz Josef and settled in to get lost…

… in the variety of reflections in the pond just outside our door -

Once we had decided to stay here on the West Coast, I did further research on an activity that I definitely wanted to do in New Zealand. No, not bungee jumping…

Sky Diving!

I paid for a separate photographer to jump with us, so I could see what I missed while I was living it. It was very odd (and only slightly scary) to “jump out of a perfectly good airplane” as my Air Force father used to say. It didn’t feel like falling, but there was a lot of pressure against my face and body, and all the scenery just seemed to be getting closer, but again, not scarily so. I was afraid the jerk when the parachute opened would hurt my back, but it wasn’t that noticeable, except later on the ground, my back was a little tender. My jump-buddy said that they normally do 5 jumps a day, but when it’s really busy, they’ll jump 10 times in one day! He said his back definitely tells him about it then.

That was the view through the open bay door, as I sat on the edge just before we let go.

I think this was my favorite still, showing the view from the ocean to the mountains and glacier -

Ok, so here’s the usual instruction to be sure and open this post in your browser by clicking the link at the end of the post so you can enjoy the video I inserted above. {I didn’t want to throw that in before the video, and ruin the narrative. ;) } For those who are interested, I have the 5 minute video that the photographer put together, including take-off and landing. Just send me a note by replying to this email.

Steve opted not to jump, because he said it was too expensive and he just wasn’t that interested.

I probably won’t take this up as a new hobby, but I would definitely paraglide again (like I did in Columbia) as I love the feeling of flying. My favorite part of the whole jump was when he tucked us into a tight spiral as we came in for a landing - WHEE!

Now for some more sedate activities. The next day we took some short hikes around town…

… and went to visit the glacier. We crossed a long suspension bridge…

… with an interesting warning...

… found a beautiful mushroom…

… and some no bigger than your fingernail!

The glacier itself was pretty far away…

… but that’s where a long lens comes in handy!

I bet that waterfall beneath the glacier is massive!

Enough excitement for one post. Good night!

Dunedin & Wanaka (again)

You may remember I mentioned Dunedin in the last post, as one terminus of the Southern Scenic Route. Well, that was our next town to stay in, on the east coast. We weren’t sure how to pronounce it, and so we asked the taxi driver who took us to dinner the first night. He proceeded to give us a short history of the town.

The town was founded by Scots, and the “edin” is from Edinburgh. He pronounced that city as Ee-din-borough, explaining that it was a “borough” like a village, while “dun” is a fort, which is what Dunedin was originally. So he said the proper pronunciation is “Dun EE din”. Got it? :)

The first place we visited was Tunnel Beach. That’s it, in the picture above. Not much of a beach, huh? Nicely, the sun came out as we walked down…

… giving us better views of what we could explore.

The tunnel was not that large stone arch you saw in the previous picture, but an actual tunnel cut through the rock to allow you down to the beach -

Above, is the area that’s a beach at low tide, but when we were there, the sea was high and wild!

We enjoyed the varied colors along the coast…

… as well as the rock formations carved by wind and water -

I saw one girl surprised by a wave as she was concentrating on filming right on the edge -

Our other goal in this area was to see Blue Penguins. They are are the smallest penguins in the world, standing just over a foot tall and weighing about 2 pounds. They are found only in New Zealand and southern Australia.

(To watch the next video, be sure to open this email in your browser by clicking the link at the bottom of the post.) They come out of the sea at dusk, after fishing all day, to return to their burrows -

There is no audio on that video because people were talking all around me, and the wind was howling, like this -

We stood for an hour in the punishing wind, in the dark, and the rain really started coming in, as the penguins came out of the surf and waddled up the beach to our observation platform. Conditions were really poor for photography, especially given that we couldn’t use any flash. This is the best (only) picture I got in focus -

check out the middle one’s feet!

I want to include the sunset show we enjoyed while having dinner our first night in Dunedin -

Since that’s not enough to make a decent post, I’m going to combine the two towns. We headed back to Wanaka to stay another couple of nights, before making the long trek though the mountains over to the West Coast.

As we crossed the interior of the island, we passed verdant farmland…

… before entering a very interesting area of rocks -

Soon thereafter, was the Clutha River…

… that kept going…

… to become Lake Dunstan…

… where the turquoise just got deeper -

Okay… on to a hike (you knew that was coming, didn’t you?). Besides more wine tasting, we tackled a fairly short hike…

… around Diamond Lake, and up…

… to the summit of Rocky Mountain for these views -

Hopefully this panorama turns out -

Before I go, I have to share these trees that were growing in the front yard of a little house…

… and here I am for scale -

I think they are a type of Redwood, and they were massive!

sunset over Lake Wanaka

The Southern Scenic Route

This is a 600+ km route linking Dunedin to Queenstown by passing along a large portion of the southern coast, and even includes Milford Sound. I don’t have a map of this right now, but Steve is working on something for the last post of our trip, showing just where all we drove. For now, you’ll need to consult your favorite method for trying to follow along with our travels.

After we left Milford Sound, we headed south to Invercargill for a couple of nights of doing very little. :) It is the southernmost city in New Zealand. In driving there, we passed some gorgeous scenery -

We did venture further south to the town of Bluff, that is known throughout the country for its massive, tasty oysters:

Steve got them raw, while I had mine fried, and oh yes were they delicious!

For once, timing was on our side, as the season had literally just opened that week.

As we headed east out of Invercargill, we passed large areas of patchwork farmland…

… interspersed with lines of trees bent from the coastal winds…

… and still more sheep -

Near Curio Bay…

… there was an interesting pocket of forest that has been preserved by the local communities, that had a number of the endemic trees and plants we had been seeing in our travels through the South Island.

It was called the Living Forest Walkway, and we really enjoyed our stroll around it, seeing unique trees…

… and enjoying the birdsong. For the next video, be sure to have your speakers on, so you can hear the Bellbird -

This is just a very short snippet of songs we’ve heard everywhere here. I’m still trying to get a good picture of one, but this is the best I have so far -

Across the road is a Petrified Forest that you can only see at low tide -

note the people in the lower left, for scale

The day cleared up nicely, as we drove on in search of waterfalls -

The first one was McLean Falls…

… which gave a nice soft pic -

On the way to the next waterfall, we happened to pull in at yet another unassuming viewpoint marker (they are very low-key about their scenic views here)…

… and were blown away by the beauty of Tautuku Beach.

(this had just been labeled “Florence Hill Lookout”)

Our next stop was Purakaunui Falls…

… where the lighting made this a tricky shot to achieve -

And we just keep driving…

Milford Sound

This was an area that kept popping up any time I looked at “must visit” places on the South Island. You can make a day trip here, but the closest town, Te Anau, is 2 hours away. There are very limited accommodations, and they are pretty pricey. What the heck. I decided we were due a little splurge, so I booked us a riverside chalet at the Milford Sound Lodge, and we couldn’t have been happier.

This was the view from our room after an afternoon of rain -

I did it again. I’m getting way ahead of myself... We had a gorgeous day on driving here, and thoroughly enjoyed the journey along Lake Te Anau -

We marveled at the hills suddenly getting higher around us…

(this is a small reminder of the tons of sheep we saw all throughout this country)

Mirror Lakes was a stop I had planned, and the clear skies…

… contributed to the beauty -

And while we walked on the boardwalk along them, a fellow photographer pointed out the Little Shag nest (with bald-headed babies) -

Moving on down the road, we reached the trailhead for the Routeburn Track, which is one of the renowned multi-day hikes in New Zealand, with huts to stay at along the way. I just wanted to do a day hike, and this one lent itself to that quite well. Right after we started, there was a pretty little waterfall right beside the trail -

The first half of the trail was in lush forest, which provided us nice cover from the hot sun…

… but the views on top of Key Summit were quite worth the climb -

Our round trip hike was 5 miles and we gained nearly 1,400 ft of elevation.

There were a number of tarns at the top…

… which gave some interesting reflections -

I caught this one just before the clouds moved in -

As we started to drive away, I saw some people photographing a bird along the roadside. It was “attacking” a car -

This is a Kea, which is the world’s only alpine parrot. They are found only on the South Island of New Zealand, usually in forests and alpine regions. Humans are attractive to them because of the birds’ curiosity and intelligence, as well as the bounty that the birds can steal from backpacks and campsites. They are commonly called “cheeky”.

Okay, so now we’re back on the storyline. We got settled into our lovely chalet before heading out the next day for a hike on the Milford Track, another multi-day hike. This one ends at the Milford Sound. To make a day hike of it, you take a water taxi for a 5 minute ride to the trailhead -

The weather prediction for the day was cloudy with a good chance of rain. This is quite common here, as it rains an average 182 days a year, for a total average rainfall of 268 inches (over 22 feet)!!

This makes for an obviously lush walkway.

there at least 4-5 types of ferns in this one shot

We encountered another endemic bird along the path, a Weka, which is also known as a woodhen -

We also had one poking around our chalet later that evening. They are the size of small chickens. Anyway, back to our hike… Lots of rain makes lots of waterfalls…

… and it was fascinating how ephemeral they could be -

One that is always there, and was the goal of our hike, is Giant Gate Falls:

Steve very kindly lugged our tripod on various hikes, when I knew there were waterfalls, so I could try and take pictures like this -

I had booked a cruise on Milford Sound for the morning we were leaving, which dawned gorgeously clear -

We cruised for a couple of hours into Milford Sound, with its incredibly tall walls…

… and numerous huge waterfalls…

… where the sunshine gave us cool rainbow effects -

You say you’re tired of scrolling, eh?

Ok… bye!

Wanaka

The clouds “down here” remind me of those we saw in Patagonia. I wonder if it has anything to do with high, fast winds -

Anyway, we passed through some pretty dry areas…

… before hitting the fertile valley around the Kawarau River in Central Otago…

… which is a really strong wine growing region -

To get there we crossed through a relatively low pass (for here)…

… and drove through a canyon with a gorgeous river, and endearing name for us - Roaring Meg (a shout out to our god-daughter!) -

On our first day in town, we headed out for a long hike (of course), to Isthmus Peak -

There was the usual beautiful scenery along the way…

… but soon after we started we spied some majestic visitors -

Red deer

As we constantly climbed higher….

… we got better and better views of Lake Hawea -

As we neared the summit, we started getting some peeks of snow capped peaks…

… and of resting fellow travelers -

The view from the summit…

…is of Lake Wanaka, while behind us was Lake Hawea -

As we descended, we got to stare at Lake Hawea all the way down…

… and see what we missed as we trudged ever upward.

By the end we had hiked about 10 miles and gained nearly 3800 feet in elevation.

Earlier I had hinted that this area is becoming pretty famous for its wines, especially Pinot Noir. Between our stay in Wanaka…

Rippon winery

… and Cromwell, we visited a number of wineries and tasting rooms, and enjoyed many glasses of local wines at dinners

Mt. Difficulty winery

There is a willow tree growing in Lake Wanaka just outside of town. It has become quite famous due to Instagram, and despite my better judgment, I did go down to the lake one morning to see what it looked like. Of all the pictures I’d seen online, none of them had the tree filled with cormorants (Little Shags) as I did. Thus, I’ll close with my tribute to #ThatWanakaTree.

Aoraki/Mt. Cook

The mountain is known officially by its Maori name, Aoraki. The national park surrounding it covers 270 square miles and contains 19 peaks higher than 3,000 meters (9842 ft). Mt. Cook is the tallest mountain in New Zealand at 12,318 ft.

But I’m getting slightly ahead of myself…

You may remember from the last post, the beautiful Lake Tekapo -

Well, after that one, we got to drive by another turquoise beauty, Lake Pukaki…

… that had an even better backdrop.

As we drove the length of the lake (nearly 10 miles), we kept getting more and more stunning views -

Mt. Cook dwarfs everything around it -

(did you notice the tiny cars in the bottom R corner?)

This was the view from our room in the hostel we stayed in ($200/night!) -

No, we didn’t stay in the dorm rooms, but we did cook our breakfast each morning (scrambled eggs and bacon) in the communal kitchen with a number of much younger like-minded hikers. The morning of our epic hike dawned gorgeously clear -

We had decided to tackle Sealy Tarns, which is “only” a 3.3 mile trail, but it is essentially straight up. We gained nearly 1800 ft. in 2.5 miles, as the first 3/4 mile was relatively flat.

There are 2200 steps (equivalent to climbing a 92 story building) !!

As we climbed higher, along with the sun, the views just kept improving -

While we’d catch our breath, I’d capture the scenes around us -

Here you can appreciate the slope of the “hill we were climbing:

Can you guess why this trail is dubbed “Stairway to Heaven”?

Woohoo!

A tarn is a mountain lake or pool that was carved out by a glacier.

This one we celebrated by having our picture taken -

There were a number of crazy, much younger people who carried on up the mountain, another 2,000 ft and 2+ miles -

We had had enough of climbing, but not of walking. After descending, we took a side trail to the Mueller Lake we had seen from above…

… and were treated to several avalanches from a nearby hanging glacier -

The rolling thunder from the snow fall was impressive.

And no, we still weren’t done. It was such a gorgeous day that we took on one more (relatively) flat hike (after a lunch of PBJ’s) to Tasman Lake.

Tasman Lake…

… the glacier feeding it…

… and the river draining it -

That night we had one more treat waiting for us.

the Southern Cross is just to the left of the dark area in the Milky Way

Good night!

Banks Peninsula and onward

I had read about this area just south of Christchurch, and when I started digging in, I was mesmerized by the beautiful pictures from there. This was our first peek -

As we kept on driving, we continued to pass smoothly rounded hills…

… and beautiful bays -

The scenery almost looked fake, and my pictures sometimes looked like a painting.

Luckily we had gorgeous weather for the day we drove the Summit Road…

… a narrow, curvy road through the hills around the main bay and the town of Akaroa, where we stayed.

These 2 days were nice and laid back, as there really isn’t a lot to do here, beyond walking along the waterfront admiring the boats…

… and the birds…

(a Variable Oystercatcher above and a South Island Pied Oystercatcher below) -

I know most of you aren’t as interested in birds as I am, but I thought the color variations were kinda neat.

The other activity in town is to check out the lighthouse (that was moved from a distant and inaccessible point, to one that was closer to town — for tourism).

As lighthouses go, we weren’t too impressed.

We left Akaroa to drive 4+ hours to Aoraki/Mt. Cook National Park (which will be a post all by itself). On the way we passed the gorgeous Lake Tekapo…

… with its unworldly colors -

We hiked up Mount John along the edge of the lake, and were treated to awesome vistas of the Southern Alps on one side…

… and turquoise hued Lake Tekapo on the other -

(no filter was used for this photo; it really was this brilliant)

I’ll leave you now, to ready my next post on my favorite area in New Zealand so far. Stay tuned!

South Island !

We boarded the largest car ferry we have ever taken, in Wellington…

… to cross the Cook Strait…

… to reach the South Island.

We noticed right away that it was much hillier than the North.

Our next town to stay in was Blenheim, which is in the heart of Marlborough wine district.

So guess how we spent our time here??

Yep. Wine tasting.

This region produces 75% of all New Zealand wine! The main grape is Sauvignon Blanc, and we thought we liked their style of wine. But after tasting a number of them, and having our salivary glands squeezed very tightly, we decided other varietals appealed to us more. Pinot Gris was a happy surprise, and if you get the chance to try one from New Zealand, enjoy!

This was Clos Henri’s tasting room. :) It was one of our favorite wineries in the area.

At one of the tasting rooms, which they call “cellar doors”, we had a unique companion -

After tasting our fill of Marlborough wines, we moved on - south down the east coast. Our destination was Kaikoura, to join a whale watching cruise (looking for sperm whales). This was the extent of what we could see as we approached town:

On checking in at the reception desk, we saw that all cruises that day were cancelled, and learned that there were 40 mph winds out at sea! Continuing down the coast…

… we treated ourselves to a visit at Pegasus Bay winery as a consolation prize.

Well, when life gives you lemons…

Martinborough and surrounds

Those of you who drink wine have probably heard of the Marlborough region in New Zealand. Well, that’s in the South Island, and we’ll get there soon enough. But I also wanted to explore Martinborough, which I first learned of when researching this trip, and especially because they produce Pinot Noir wines (among others). This town is in the SE area of the North Island.

There are only 2,000 people who live there year round. It was founded in the late 1800’s and for most of its history, it was a rural service town for the nearby farms. When viticulture began in the 1980’s, the Wairarapa region blossomed, and today there are over 30 wineries there.

As we drove south from Napier to Martinborough, we encountered more and more open areas of farm land…

… and increasing numbers of sheep (and cattle). Hills became higher, and here in late summer, they were covered in dry grass -

We tried our best to visit as many wineries as our livers would allow…

… and we were treated to a variety of wines and scenery -

The vines you see above are covered in netting to thwart the birds that would probably clear the vines of the ripe fruit just before the vintners were wanting to pick them.

Also of note in that picture is the sharp contrast between the pines and the bare hillsides. The timber industry is quite large in New Zealand and actively farms trees, replacing whole swaths that have been clear cut.

We were surprised to see so many dairy cattle being raised on the North Island, and were astonished to discover that New Zealand is the #1 dairy product exporter in the world!

We drove down to the southern coast…

… intending to hike (what else?), but the glowering clouds were threatening to derail that. So we first drove down to the southernmost point of the island…

… to visit the Cape Palliser lighthouse -

There were only 235 steps up; so, undaunted, we headed up -

It afforded a nice view back up the coast -

We could see that the gloomy clouds looked to be moving on, so we headed back to the trailhead for our hike. This Cabbage Tree is native to New Zealand, and we saw them all over -

Fun fact: the trunk is so fire resistant that early European settlers used them for chimneys!

Also along the way, we passed some loungers right beside the road -

In the little hamlet of Ngawi, they use tractors to move the fishing boats in and out -

I liked this juxtaposition of new and old:

We encountered a lot of road work going on around the country, but they hadn’t yet started here -

Okay… finally on to the hike. The Putangirua Pinnacles!

For you Lord of the Rings fans, the Paths of the Dead scenes were filmed here. These are composed of conglomerate rock that has been worn over millennia by wind and rain.

I think I know where the idea for the Easter Island Moai came from ;) —

Finally the sun came out!

As dry as the streambed was that we hiked up, the return loop through the forest was quite verdant -

There was a sign at the beginning of the trail that said it was closed, but people posting on the All Trails app said it was doable by scrambling over fallen trees, and watching out for slide areas:

We didn’t think it was all that difficult. :)

Yay! The sun stayed out the rest of the day. (The pink tinged pampas grass is really pretty, but unfortunately it’s invasive.)

Wineries and Gannets

That’s an interesting mix.

The town of Napier on the east coast was our next stop. It lies on Hawke’s Bay, which we had previously heard of in regards to wine.

The day we arrived was gorgeous - sunny and cloudless, which was such an improvement over the clouds and rain of Taupo. Napier’s center is unique in that it was essentially destroyed by an earthquake in 1931, and rebuilt in the Art Deco style of the 1930’s.

We enjoyed wandering around downtown…

… and near the sea -

This was one of my favorite buildings (I just wish that SUV wasn’t parked in front of it) -

We visited a number of wineries in the area…

… in various beautiful settings -

That’s the view from Craggy Range winery, which is one that we had tried some of the wines before this trip. For those who are interested, most of the wines from Hawke’s Bay are Chardonnay and Syrah, with a little Pinot Noir thrown in for good measure. If you want a list of the wineries we visited and/or recommend, just email me.

For our last day in the area, I had booked a tour out to Cape Kidnappers to visit one of the world’s largest mainland colonies of Gannets. Most Gannets nest on isolated rocks or islands surrounded by sea, but these are quite settled here, and are not bothered by their human visitors -

They mate for life, and when one of the pair return to the nest after fishing, they are greeted with enthusiastic calls, neck twining and preening -

Their chick also demands food -

These 4 month old chicks are as big or bigger than the parents…

… and are getting ready to take their first flight, for which they will be about 2 pounds heavier than their parents!

We actually saw one take off, and our guide informed us that it wouldn’t land until it reached some islands off the SE coast of Australia, 1500 miles away. How’s that for your first trip from home!

There were a few late chicks still in their downy best…

… but our guide said they may be too late in the season to successfully fledge.

When a young male is courting a female, he brings seaweed to help build a nest -

The next video has a couple reuniting just to the right of center of the flock, doing their reunion dance and then feeding their chick -

Steve noticed that they have electric green lines on their feet -

Their habitat is starkly beautiful…

… and another smaller colony is more isolated -

Such beautiful birds!

New Zealand !

I have wanted to come here for a very long time, even before I knew that the Lord of the Rings movies were filmed here. For those of you hoping to see photos of filming sites, you’ll be disappointed mostly, as we definitely don’t go out of our way to visit those. If an area happened to show up in the films, and we’re visiting there anyway, I’ll let you know. :)

After flying into Auckland, we drove 3 hours south to Taupo, a nice little town (with excellent restaurants!) situated on Lake Taupo, the largest lake in NZ. Amazingly, I didn’t get any pictures of the lake (because it was so large - 29 miles by 21 miles, still pictures just wouldn’t do it justice). However, I’ll share our view off the back deck of our accommodation, overlooking the Waikato river -

Just upriver from here are the Huka Falls, where the river is forced into a narrow canyon (45 ft across) after flowing peacefully before it at 300 feet across.

As always, to watch the next video, be sure and open this post in a bowser by clicking the link at the bottom of the post.

And after that narrowed canyon, the water falls over 30 feet and gets to spread out again -

We took the tripod so I could get a long exposure picture of the water, but there was so much whitewater and force, I didn’t get the usual “smooth” water shot -

That same day we also visited Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, and were lucky to have some sunny skies…

… that gave me my coveted reflection views -

Every thermal area we’ve visited in the world (Yellowstone, Iceland, Vanuatu) has had unique topography surrounding it…

… but this one definitely had the most interesting color variations!

Another stop on our tour was strolling through the Whakarewarewa Forest…

… amidst towering California Redwoods and Fern Trees -

The next day we undertook probably the longest hike we’ve ever done.

For those of you not well versed in metric, that’s 12 miles (however at the end, we had to hike yet another mile down a gravel road to get back to our car). Note the low hanging clouds in the picture.

So many times as I was researching our trip, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing was praised as “the world’s greatest day hike” so of course we just had to do it. We didn’t have the luxury of extra days to try and wait for perfect weather (as well as needing to book the transportation to the trailhead well ahead of time), so we gritted our teeth and strode off. Besides the grey weather, we were also walking with a bus full of other people. Sigh.

Since we didn’t have large vistas to enjoy, I focused on the colorful lichen around us -

About 2 hours in, as we crossed a large bare plain, the clouds suddenly lifted…

… and we got a clear view of Mt. Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings!) -

(see the tiny people hiking across the plain?)

All too soon, the clouds came back in…

… and the light mist…

the hairs on Steve’s arm trapped the mist

… turned to rain accompanied by howling winds -

Not our best weather day for a hike.

We had climbed about 2700 ft in a little under 3 hours, and then we had the long descent. The end of the trail was actually significantly lower than the initial trailhead, and so our total descent was 4000 ft!

I’ve seen pictures of the 3 Emerald Pools taken on a clear day, and they are just spectacular against the dark rocky backdrop (Google the Tongariro Alpine Crossing to see what we missed). :(

No matter the weather, there will still be Instagrammers (with the pink umbrella) trying to get their best shot -

And so we descended…

… and kept walking…

… and walking…

… and enjoying bits of color…

… especially as we got lower -

After 6 long hours of trudging through wind and rain and poor visibility, the backside of the hike gave us a nice view of Lake Taupo -

But we weren’t done yet. This was at the 16 km mark (remember it’s 19+ km long), and we dropped into…

… a gorgeous rainforest that we didn’t expect. Nobody who reviewed the trail mentioned this - probably because they were too beat by then.

This babbling stream was a nice way to lift our flagging spirits (and heels) at the end -

I don’t have a blockbuster end to this post, just stats. The elevation gained and descended was as noted above, and we completed 20 miles (& lunch) in right at 7 hours. Whew.